Bodrum, known in the ancient times as Halicarnassus which was the capital of Caria, was the birthplace of Herodotus and the site of King Mausolous' Tomb (4th century B.C.), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In the harbor, the Bodrum Castle, or the medieval castle of St. Peter, is a fine example of 15th century crusader architecture, and has been converted into the Museum of Underwater Archeology, with remains dating as far back as the Bronze Age. The stunning panoramic view from Goktepe, nearby, is much photographed by visitors to the Museums' 2nd century theater.

The beautiful Bodrum Peninsula suits holidaymakers interested in a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Enchanting villages, with guest-houses and small hotels on quiet bays, dot the peninsula. On the southern coast, Bardakci, made popular in the past by the patronage of Zeki Muren, a famous Turkish singer who recently passed away while being honored by a television program, making his first public appearance after a long seclusion due to illness. Bardakci is also known in ancient myth as the bay of Salmacis, the place where the son of the god Hermes and the goddess Aphrodite fell in love with a sea nymph. They were united in one body and thus “hermaphrodite” entered the lexicon as a designation for bisexual persons. The spring where the nymph played now bubbles up in the sea making the water cool on the hottest of days.

Gumbet, the next bay to the west, is Bodrum’s Brighton, ‘nuff said. Here in previous seasons some foreign females reported receiving overdoses of unwanted attention, particularly at night on the beach (that’s our mild way of describing their experiences), so, a word to the wise - you may want to carry a hatpin, a great weapon that needs no license to carry. We will drop this caution in our ‘99 issues if no happenings of this unpleasant nature are reported this season. Anticipating protests from some Gumbet establishments we hasten to add that Gumbet is still safer than Miami, Florida. We would also like to add that those who do not want to be paid unwelcome attention should “cease and desist” from unduly provocative behavior.

If you want a more ethnic flavor with family enjoyment try Golkoy, or, for the native twist with a dash of “society” try Turkbuku where restaurants are good but mostly expensive. Among our favorites are Yalikavak and Gundogan where you’ll find nice sandy beaches and friendly people. If you’re inclined to explore the countryside, hike to the deserted village of Sandima, inland and south from the Yalikavak coast. The hike is not tiring, the view of Yalikavak from Sandima is superb and the spring water still flowing from the old village drinking fountain is most refreshing. The beaches at both Yalikavak and Gundogan are sandy and not crowded and near each beach there are pleasant restaurants where you can have just a cool beverage or a full meal. When you visit Gundogan you may want to take a boat trip to the nearby Big Rabbit Island (Buyuktavsan Adasi), the site of a Byzantine monastic church with visible remains of frescoes estimated to date from the ninth century.

To the south of Yalikavak is Gumusluk, known by the ancients by the name Myndus. Bring your diving mask with you when you go there because there is much to see just below the water where parts of the historic city subsided in some cataclysmic event and lie just below the surface. An old Greek Orthodox chapel here has here has been remodelled and is now used as an art gallery and for various cultural events - you may be lucky and find some good musicians playing just when you visit.

Torba, 8km NE of Bodrum, is “in” with some Turkish intellectuals (and those who try to pass as such), but due to its proximity to Bodrum it can get crowded. There’s an uncrowded pebble beach on the E side of the bay where there are remains of a Byzantine church. On a hilltop E and above Torba there is a remarkably well-preserved Lelegian tomb, well worth the 1 1/2 - 2 hour climb.

On the south shore of the peninsula Bitez beach is a relatively uncrowded strand which, for some unfathomable reason, is not as popular as it deserves to be due of its cleanliness and general pleasant, orderly yet laid-back atmosphere. One explanation for this may be the sea bottom which has much seaweed, but distance swimmers appreciate its expanse of sea usually undisturbed by speeding water sports enthusiasts. Walks along country lanes among citrus orchards north of Bitez are very pleasant at this time of the year.

You can savor a very Turkish family atmosphere at Yahsi beach of Ortakent. The beach is uncrowded, everybody minds their own business and surprisingly good treats can be found in some shore restaurants. Stick to Turkish dishes, not fast food - if you insist on hamburgers, eat them in Bodrum at McDonald’s, Burger King or the Lunch Box.

Here’s a final, special, insider’s tip for those who want to enjoy the sea and local ambiance far from the madding crowd: explore the coast of Yaliciftlik and Asagi Mazi, east of Bodrum and south of Mumcular. Getting there may be a bit problematic as public transportation is scarce, but it’s worth it.